Slow Time in Laos

Situated in a maze of backstreets and guesthouses is a backpackers mecca of sprawling futons and wooden tables amongst a leafy garden overlooking the Mekong river. It is called Utopia. I've been here everyday since I've been in Luang Prabang, mostly to eat from their menu of Westernised dishes as my trip here coincided with my appetite hitting a huge wall after four weeks of noodles, rice and everything fried. One nugget of advice Utopia offers is that Lao P.D.R stands for "please don't rush" and this sums up my time in Laos perfectly: chill, slow-paced and relaxed. 

It's not too difficult to embrace a more leisurely approach to traveling in Laos, mainly because there isn't a huge amount to do here. Laos is a truly breathtaking country; mountainous views and the rush of the Song river stole a few moments of silence from me when we arrived in Vang Vieng. Luang Prabang is home to the phenomenal Kuang Si waterfalls which blew my mind. The pictures just don't do it justice. 

However, once you've spent a few days in each place there really isn't much to keep you here, unless you find yourself stuck waiting for some post to arrive like me. What I've found with traveling is that you really do have to adjust yourself to a new way of life. At home there was barley a minute in the day I wasn't working, running, seeing friends and family or catching up on much needed life administration (bills, car tax, that form you've been meaning to fill out in weeks, etc.) But when you're backpacking, unless you want to cram every single day with sightseeing, treks and tours which is both exhausting and expensive, you need to fill the hours with something when you don't have the luxury of having everything at your expense. For me this includes writing, reading ferociously, going to the gym. I spent time volunteering at a not for profit organisation called "Big Brother Mouse", where you can speak to young students and help them practise their English (a hugely humbling experience which I'd urge anybody to go and do if they find themselves in Luang Prabang.) 

It's been a shock to the system after trying to cram as much of Thailand as possible into a month. Thailand has also developed to adapt itself to suit all the demands of tourism, whereas Laos is a little behind on this. There's not huge party scene, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Now, I've never been somebody to turn down a party and I'm not about to stop. I've been to a Full Moon party and collected a good few Sakura bar T-shirts in Vang Vieng (Drink triples. See double. Act single.) But whislt big cities like Bangkok can soak up drunken behaviour, drunken backpackers seem more exposed in the lazy Laos towns. We went tubing and I chose not to drink, and I felt so uncomfortable watching people shout and slur and fall about in the makeshift huts next to small farming houses and in idyllic surroundings. If I was sober in a bar or a club then fine, it would make more sense. But to lose yourself to drunken abandon and leave yourself at the mercy of kind locals or strangers to look after you...I don't know. It's given me a whole new perspective. 

Grace xo

THE PRACTICALS. Where to eat, what to do, etc.

VIENTIANE

Not much at all! Buddha Park is okay if you want to kill an hour or so. The night markets have a few good food stalls amongst an abundance of fake Nike trainers, apple watches and clothes. I wouldn't spend any longer than two nights here. 

VANG VIENG

GARY'S IRISH BAR. Gary! Just when I was recoiling at the thought of another friend noodle dish, your chicken and mushroom pie saved me. Forever grateful.

WHOPPING BURGER. Didn't make it here but heard very good things.

SAKURA BAR. Everybody goes here. About 5 doors down from Real backpackers hostel and the Kangaroo bar. You can't miss it. Free whisky from 8-9pm (which is as lethal as it sounds.)

TUBING. Fun, but just be careful, as in don't get so wasted that you could cause yourself an injury. New regulations mean that there are now only 2 bars open at a time each day, so it's very different now compared to a few years ago. I read that 22 people died tubing in 2012. Think about it. 

KAYAKING. Another great way to enjoy the scenery, and it starts further up from the same route as you go tubing along.

REAL BACKPACKERS HOSTEL. We stayed here and it was a great place and really central. Some stay at Chilllao due to their offer of free whisky 7-11pm, but don't be too dissapointed if it's fully booked as most places seem to offer free alcohol of some sort. Usually whisky. 

LUANG PRABANG

KUANG SI WATERFALLS. Wow, wow, wow. Up there with one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. 

BIG BROTHER MOUSE. This made my time in Luang Prabang. I went a good few times and I would of gone every day if I'd of known about it sooner. You go to speak with young people ranging from 15 - 20 years old to help them practise their English. They are all so polite and so willing to learn. I've never worked with such keen young people before.

NIGHT MARKET. One of the best I've been to so far. Everybody is open to a good haggle too. 

UTOPIA. Go to hang out, eat, drink and meet other backpackers. They also do yoga classes on the rooftop deck in the morning.

Drop a comment below if you have any questions!